“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.” John Muir
When a fellow hiker contacted me and asked if I would like to join them to hike Gunung Liang I immediately said yes, not knowing anything about this forest. But I always believe no matter how difficult or easy a hike can be, the challenge is to attempt it. While planning for the trip we faced a few hinders, our climbing dates had to be postponed, two friends from the group who wanted to do a recce of the trail were unable to continue, and had to turn back. Till the last minute I was not sure of the transportation. I even told a friend that it looks like the “universe is giving me a message”
Mt. Liang (West and East) is 1933 m above sea level and this twin peak is ranked 35th on the list of the mountains of Malaysia. It is about 440 m higher than Gunung Nuang and about 250 m higher than Gunung Rajah. At 5.30 in the morning with our headlamps we all set into the forest in pitch darkness. The trails were wet from the previous days’ rain and I found myself on all fours at certain areas where it was slippery, holding onto the roots of trees to make sure I didn’t slip or fall into the ravine.
Before the hike I did some research on Gunung Liang and leeches and bees are what every writer has warned hikers about. Not even 15 minutes into the forest and in the darkness, I started feeling the leeches. It was just all over, after sometime I just didn’t want to think about it. Well, what more could I do?
The almost 2 hours walk towards Lubuk Hantu was fairly nice (The name Lubuk Hantu ,allegedly comes from an incident several decades ago in the 1970s or so when some local people saw an apparition of a man dressed in a fine suit on one of the rocks next to the river).We spent some time at the river, cleaning ourselves from the leeches that were feasting on us, had some snacks before facing the real ascent.
The hike to Kemp 7E was a continued ascent, though we got few places to enjoy the level ground. Kemp 7E looks to be a popular camping spot, but I personally feel Lubuk Hantu would make a nice camping ground with the river close by. The cool breeze at camp 7E gave me the chills, while some were still enjoying the rest, few of us started the hike towards the peak.
From 7E, the trail remains steep in places, hence we did not get much time to enjoy a breather. It was a continuous climb. We passed some very shapely boulders on the way towards the peak. After sometime on the trail the landscape started to change. Beautiful narrow bamboo alleys with fallen leaves that gave an autumn feel, and then mossy forest. It was one of the most breathtakingly beautiful climbs I have ever been on. It was steep slopes till the peak, and in many areas required both hands to pull oneself up. Hence a good amount of physical fitness is required to go through the challenging climb. At one point I complained to my friend saying there are too many climbs and she said, you came to climb Liang, so now you do it. I needed the hard push, I guess!
You don’t see much of a view at the peak of Gunung Liang East, with a fallen beirut, on a grassy peak is what you see. As we climbed, I was told there will be two peaks east and west and apparently west is more beautiful. Other than our group there was one other group climbing Liang on that day, and one of them told us it’s just 5 minutes from here. Since I knew that she is a trail runner and a podium finisher, I thought to myself her 5 minutes might be 3 times more for us, but she reassured me that it was just 5 minutes. The walk from Liang East to west included 2 very steep climbs. I got hesitant for a moment seeing it, and even thought of staying back. But one of the hikers said, you came all the way here and why not. True why not? I won’t say it was easy for me, but with the help from another fellow hiker I climbed down. I wasn’t sure, but I was so glad I did it. It was breathtakingly beautiful, you need to be there to see or experience the distinction in landscape. Liang East is a tropical landscape with a collapsed metal pyramid on a grassy path, whereas Liang West is of temperate feel with the mossy forest. Though it does not offer any view, it was pleasant. We spent some time enjoying the mystical forest.
When you do long full day hikes, you are always excited when you hike to the peak, but going down always seems to take forever. One thing, you are tired and exhausted and fatigue kicks in. That’s where the mental strength is required. While walking down towards Kemp 7E I said out loud “why am I doing this?” and the hiker behind me said “because you can”. The return was faster at first, but the continuous downhill took its toll on our bodies, and we slowed down.
Going down to Kemp 7E seems forever. When we reached 7E few from the group were already there. Rather than spending too much time there we decided to keep moving. With the current weather one never knows when it would start to rain and we definitely don’t want to get stuck near the river without being able to cross due to water level.
Leaving behind 2 hikers and the sweeper, the rest decided to walk forward since it was going to be dark soon. We knew they were in good hands and one with knee pain, he needs to move slowly. Even though we tried we could not get out of the forest before darkness set in. With headlamps on we set out. The shrill hum of cicada (riang-riang) echoing the forest, the whooping hoot of gibbons, the honk of hornbills, and the various sounds from the creepy crawlies filled up the forest. Hiking Gunung Liang requires strength and endurance especially if it’s a day hike. Long hard incline, tree root, 70 – 80-degree climb, the technical trail and the climbs using core muscle, and pulling yourself up over the huge trees with whatever upper body strength you have,
Gunung Liang had an unexplainable vibe. A sense of a calm that keeps reminding you of your presence in that very moment and you feel drawn into the depth of its silence. During weekends Malaysian trails are always crowded, but not this place, other than us it was just another group of 6 people. As we walked the trails, we noticed how untouched the paths were. I don’t know why Liang is not explored as much as other forests, because it was such a beauty. You get everything a hiker could dream for, the steady paths, the incline, the root trails, the mud, the climbs and the mystical mossy forest.
You have to see it to believe it
Trace a Trail 